California may be known as the car-culture capital of the country, but Arizona boasts some of the most scenic, historic and fun roads (without the traffic). Here’s a look at six of our favorites. By Erika Ayn Finch
Does driving aid in digestion? Maybe. All we know is that we love going for a drive after an early dinner, and Red Rock Loop Road offers some beautiful views in a very short distance. The views are even lovelier at sunset when the red rocks turn a fiery orange. Red Rock Loop Road levels out after six miles at its intersection with Chavez Ranch Road. We highly recommend you turn left on Chavez Ranch and then right on FR 216A to Crescent Moon Ranch or, as it’s more commonly called, Red Rock Crossing. The recreation area offers some of the most recognizable and stunning views of Cathedral Rock and Oak Creek. Take a short walk along Oak Creek, where the views only get better. The creek-side trail ends at Buddha Beach, which boasts a popular swimming hole and rocks stacked by visitors. Crescent Moon Ranch is open from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. Admission is $10 per vehicle. Drive back to Red Rock Loop Road and make a left. You’re now driving through a residential area, so please drive cautiously and be mindful of homeowners. After driving nine miles, the pavement ends, and you’re navigating a dirt road (fine for cars). The pavement begins again at mile 9.8. Ten miles into your drive, the entrance to Red Rock State Park will be on your left. At press time, the state park was scheduled to close its gates June 3; however, local activists were raising money to keep it open. If they succeed, stop at the educational park for more photo opportunities and to explore the visitors center, which offers info on area fauna and flora. The park is open from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. daily. Admission is $10 per vehicle. Continue on Red Rock Loop Road, and after 12 miles, slow down and look to your left at a rock outcropping. Near the top and underneath a ledge you’ll see an Indian ruin made from red rock. Another half-mile further and you’ll see FR 9853 on your right. The short, but rough, dirt road leads to the Red Rock Loop trailhead and a delightful two-mile hike. Thirteen miles from the ‘Y, Red Rock Loop Road meets up with SR 89A once again. Turn right and go back into town. Oak Creek Canyon On Aug. 24, 1984, the Arizona Department of Transportation designated State Route 89A through Oak Creek Canyon the Sedona-Oak Creek Canyon Scenic Road. The drive from Uptown Sedona to the top of the Mogollon Rim just south of Flagstaff is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Red Rock Country, as anyone who has tried to get to Flagstaff from Sedona during peak season for an appointment can tell you. Starting from the ‘Y, the mouth of Oak Creek Canyon begins after a short, half-mile drive through Uptown. You’ll traverse Midgley Bridge, which spans Wilson Canyon, after driving less than two miles. Within the next mile, you’ll pass Grasshopper Point, a popular swimming hole and picnic spot ($8 per car); Rainbow Trout Farm, which offers family fishing; and Indian Gardens where you’ll find a visitors center, a delish deli and general store, and Garland’s Indian Jewelry. Four-and-a-half miles into your drive, you’ll come upon a Dairy Queen on your right and a large parking lot where Native American vendors sell arts and crafts. Thus far, Oak Creek has been flowing below you – you’ll catch glimpses of its clear waters outside your passenger window. During the summer, green trees form a canopy over this section of the road. If you are looking for a great picnic spot, pull into Encinoso Picnic Area, which you’ll find five miles from the ‘Y on your left. The picnic spot is named after Encinoso Falls, a seasonal waterfall that cascades down the walls of Oak Creek Canyon on the opposite side of the road from the picnic area. As SR 89A gains in elevation, the oak trees and cottonwoods recede and tall pine trees take their place. Look for Slide Rock State Park at mile 6.7 (see Our Favorite Hikes on page 30). Hoel’s Indian Shop, a little more than nine miles into your drive, will be on your left. The shop is located in the home of David and Carol Watters, and it’s a must-stop for anyone who loves Native American art. In 1945, Don and Nita Hoel moved to Oak Creek Canyon where they purchased a small group of tourist cabins. Don began purchasing jewelry, rugs, katsina dolls and baskets from the Navajo, Hopi and Zuni Native Americans who would come to the canyon to collect herbs. Don sold the goods out of a vault in the back of their home behind the grocery store. In the early 1970s, he and Nita built a new home up the road from the cabins and designed a specific room for Don Hoel’s Indian Shop. The shop remains in the same location today. David Watters is Don and Nita’s grandson. After you’ve had your fill of art, continue on your journey. Call O’ The Canyon, a recreation area and the beginning of the extremely popular West Fork Trail, is located on your left 10 miles up the canyon. If all this spectacular scenery has left you thirsty, pull to the left of the road at the 12-mile point where spring water at Sterling Spring flows from a pipe spout secured in a rock monument. Fill up your water bottles, and continue along SR 89A. When you cross Pumphouse Wash at mile 13, you’ll be driving up a series of sharp, steep switchbacks. If you’re in the right vehicle, this can be an especially fun section of road, but it’s also dangerous so please obey the speed limit. The scenic road ends a little more than 15 miles from the ‘Y at the Oak Creek Vista. Pull into the parking lot on your right, browse the Native American arts-and-crafts vendors, and enjoy several incredible lookouts that allow you to look down into Oak Creek Canyon. It’s a photo spot you won’t want to miss. Crown King As anyone who has lived in Arizona for more than a few months can attest, some of the state’s most scenic roads aren’t paved. It’s hard for us to imagine living in Sedona and not owning a high-clearance or four-wheel-drive vehicle; without one, you would miss the scenic, 25-mile dirt-road that winds its way from I-17 to the town of Crown King, population somewhere between 80 and 100. From the ‘Y in Sedona, head south on State Route 179 and south on Interstate 17. About 50 miles into your journey, exit Bloody Basin Road/exit No. 259, and turn right toward Crown King and Cleator. Once you’re on the relatively compacted dirt road, desert chaparral, grazing cattle and boulder-studded hillsides surround you. When you come to the Antelope Creek Road junction, turn left. Shortly thereafter, you’ll enter the town of Cordes, established in 1883, with its population of 11. If you’re out on the weekend, we highly recommend stopping at the small antique store that also sells cold drinks and snacks. We once purchased a rare edition of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet from the shop. Depart Cordes and, when you come to a fork in the road 58 miles into your drive, turn right. As you climb in elevation, the scenery around you begins to change – saguaro cactuses begin cropping up and roadrunners scurry across the route. At the road’s junction with Yavapai 59, turn right and watch for the jagged outcroppings of black basalt. After driving for about 62 miles, you’ll enter the town of Cleator, which boasts one biker-friendly bar where we spied a local getting a haircut on the patio. The road climbs sharply as soon as it leaves Cleator. Be prepared to cross one-lane bridges, sandy spots and very narrow, steep sections of highway. You’ll drive through an area of forest that was burned during the 2008 Lane 2 fire that threatened to turn Crown King to ash. Just before you reach the tiny town, you’ll notice the cactuses have long since disappeared in your rearview mirror, and you are now in a cool forest of tall pine trees. Crown King, named after the defunct Crowned King Mine, sits at an elevation of 5,771 feet. Take a break from the bumpy, twisty road at the Crown King Saloon and Café, the oldest running saloon in Arizona according to its owners. The café serves burgers, sandwiches and great french fries. On July 17, the saloon hosts the Crown King Luau and on Aug. 7 it’s time for the 27th Annual Horseshoe Pitch. Visit www.crownkingsaloon.com or call 928-632-7053 for a complete listing of events. Just a hunch, but we have a feeling the saloon gets rowdy on summer weekends. Jerome/Mingus Mountain/Chino Valley/Williams Loop Starting and ending at the ‘Y in Sedona: 171 miles Attractions: Jerome, views, wine tasting, wildlife, Sultana Bar Within days of buying a super-fast little red coupe last year, we had to see how she handled two of the twistiest, curviest roads in the Sedona area: Oak Creek Canyon and Mingus Mountain. The latter won hands down in the fun category. If you get motion sickness, this loop drive might not be for you, but if you’re the type who possesses a pair of leather driving gloves, get ready for a good time. From the ‘Y, drive south on State Route 89A for 16 miles, then turn left on Mingus Road. You’ll cross over the Verde River and drive through a residential area before turning right on Main Street in Cottonwood. Dead Horse Ranch State Park, which offers some nice hiking trails, is located off North 10th (on your right about 18 miles into your trip). You’ll enter Old Town Cottonwood after another mile. Continue on Main Street as it turns into Broadway. You’ll pass the entrance to Tuzigoot National Monument after 21 miles. Turn left onto Main Street through downtown Clarkdale, passing St. Cecilia’s Mission on the right. Follow the signs to Jerome, going straight through two roundabouts and back onto SR 89A, heading up Mingus Mountain. You’ll pass the turnoff to a fabulous cactus nursery at mile 23, and you’ll be in the old mining town of Jerome 28 miles after leaving Sedona. We love Jerome, and we definitely recommend parking the car and exploring the unique town. Check out Jerome Winery, with its breathtaking views from the patio, and Caduceus Cellars and Merkin Vineyards’ tasting room, owned by alt rocker Maynard James Keenan. The Spirit Room, located in the Connor Hotel (built in 1898), is a lively bar and popular hangout with the bikers who flock to Jerome on the weekends. If you partake, please make sure someone else does the driving because the road is about to get interesting. As soon as you leave Jerome, 89A becomes a series of steep switchbacks that climb Mingus Mountain. The views extend across the Verde Valley and Sedona – you’ll even be able to see Flagstaff’s San Francisco Peaks. After driving 34 miles, you’ll reach the mountain’s summit and Mingus Recreation Area. And you know what they say: What goes up must come down. You’ll descend the other side of the mountain in another series of switchbacks, reaching the outskirts of Prescott Valley in a little more than four miles. Driving up and over Mingus can leave knuckles white and palms sweaty. We love it. Continue on 89A, keeping an eye out for the herds of antelope that live in the fields on either side of the road. Fifty-three miles into this adventure, head north on U.S. 89 through Chino Valley. It’s a pastoral drive through the valley and then into the community of Paulden. As you drive across the Drake Overpass, you’ll have views that stretch into Red Rock Country. The highway passes through both the Prescott and Kaibab national forests before it intersects with Interstate 40 at the town of Ash Fork, about 95 miles from Sedona. From Ash Fork, drive east on I-40 and exit the I-40 Business Loop through Williams (exit No. 161). Williams is a charming Old West town, home to the “world famous” Sultana Bar, which claims to have the oldest liquor license in the state. The place is a dive, but the beer is served cold, and what’s better than a cold beer on a hot afternoon? Continue on I-40 into Flagstaff and then drive south on SR 89A through Oak Creek Canyon and back into Sedona for a 171-mile loop. Strawberry and Pine How can anyone resist a summer daytrip to sister towns with the names Strawberry and Pine? Both locations are every bit as charming as their names would suggest. Throw in a highway with lazy curves that hug the Mogollon Rim, and you’re set for the ultimate Sunday drive. Your road trip begins at the ‘Y in Sedona. Head south on State Route 179 and south on Interstate 17 to Highway 260. Drive east on 260 through the town of Camp Verde. The highway quickly changes from four lanes to two and makes a gradual climb, leading you through a pastoral landscape of grassy fields and stubby trees. After you’ve been driving for 50 miles, you’ll enter the pines of the Tonto National Forest. When you reach the junction of highways 260 and 87, continue east on 260 (and south on 87). Sixty-five miles into your trip, you’ll enter the quaint town of Strawberry, which, according to the United States Census Bureau, has a total area of 10.2 square miles. For now, pass through Strawberry and continue another three miles to Pine. Head back toward Strawberry, but this time turn right on Fossil Creek Road. One-and-a-half miles down the road, you’ll find the Strawberry Schoolhouse, built in 1884. Owned by the Arizona Historical Society, the schoolhouse, complete with an iron bell on its gable, is the oldest standing school in Arizona. You can peek in the windows for a glimpse of old desks and a blackboard, but if you really plan ahead, call 928-476-3547 and make an appointment for a tour. Continue down Fossil Creek Road and follow the signs to the Ranch at Fossil Creek and Fossil Creek Creamery. If you’re a sucker for locally made foodstuffs, Fossil Creek Creamery is your pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Owners John and Joyce Bittner built the working ranch in 1996 and added the creamery in 2004. When you drive up, you’ll be greeted by bleating goats and statuesque llamas. Inside the small shop, John and Joyce make and sell goat cheese, goat fudge, goat’s-milk yogurt and goat’s-milk soap (all under a sign that reads, “We owe our success to udders”). Some of Sedona’s most popular restaurants serve cheese from the creamery. Call in advance and make reservations to tour the ranch and learn how goat’s milk is turned into cheese and fudge. The ranch is open to the public, Saturdays and Sundays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and during the week by appointment. Call 928-476-5178 or visit www.ranchatfossilcreek.com. Sunset Crater Volcano and Wupatki National Monuments The 36-mile loop road that encompasses both Sunset Crater Volcano and Wupatki national monuments north of Flagstaff was one of our favorite drives before we even lived in Arizona. It’s especially enchanting during this time of year when monsoon storms build over the nearby San Francisco Peaks and the light of the setting sun bathes the crater and pueblo ruins in a warm orange glow. Bring a picnic with you and take advantage of numerous picnic spots along your route. From the ‘Y, head north on State Route 89A through Oak Creek Canyon, then drive north on Interstate 17 and east on Interstate 40. Exit U.S. 89 north (exit No. 201). After you’ve been traveling 44 miles, you’ll make a right into Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument. The entrance fee is $5 per person (good for seven days) and is valid for both national monuments. After driving on the road for about two miles, you’ll come upon a visitors center, which explains the geological history of Sunset Crater. (A series of powerful eruptions between 1040 and 1100 created the crater.) Continue on the loop road, and in less than one mile, you’ll spot a rugged lava field on your left. Forty-seven miles into your journey, we recommend you get out of the car and venture out onto the Lava Flow Trail – the first quarter-mile of this one-mile trail is paved and gives you an up-close view of lava flows and cinder fields. Your best view of Sunset Crater arrives at mile 49.5 and the Cinder Hills Overlook. Sunset Crater is surrounded by pine forest (we’ve actually spotted bald eagles in this area during the winter), but the foliage changes dramatically as the road loses elevation on the way to Wupatki National Monument. When you’ve traveled 54 miles, you’ll be treated to colorful views of the distant Painted Desert. You’ll reach the entrance to Wupatki National Monument at mile 63. Your first ruin will be Wukoki Pueblo, which is located at the end of a 2.5-mile road that branches off the loop. An easy, 0.2-mile trail leads to the ruins, which are arguably the second best in the monument. The best ruins have to be the Wupatki Pueblo, located at the visitors center. Native Americans called the pueblo home during the 1100s, turning it into a 100-room community.
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
SEEDONA | |
 |
||
|
 |
This Month's Cover Story |
|
||
|
Sedona Gone Hollywood | |
|
||
|
Sedona Activities | |
|
||
|
Sedona Snapshots | |
|
||
|
Dear Diary | |
|
||
|
SEDONA GUIDE | |
|
||
|
Lodging | |
|
||
|
|
Restaurants |
|
||
|
Art Galleries | |
|
||
|
Spas | |
|
||
|
Entertainment | |
|
||
|
HAPPENINGS | |
|
||
|
Calendar of Events | |
|
||
|
DIRECTORY | |
|
||
|
Maps and Directions | |
|
||
© 2006-2007 Bar225 Media Ltd. All rights reserved.
|